BOLERO Bar and Kitchen, on a scorching April day, was a welcoming cavern of art deco elegance, cool and sequestered from the hubbub and heat of Foregate Street.

But would the food and beer live up to promise of the bar’s pleasing decor? This was the mission of the Pub Spy, the Scarlet Pimpernel of food criticism in the Worcester area: for many serve the Spy, and few suspect.

Firstly, however, I must mention that art deco elegance, which is most noticeable in the ceiling design and some exquisite light fittings, suitable for the Gatsby-era. The bar itself is both roomy and inviting, and so I settled down to enjoy a nice cool pint of Peroni, which is the best thing out of Italy since the Renaissance.

It pleased me that it was served in a tall ‘official’ Peroni glass, and although the price was a little steep, at £5 a go, it was the quality pint it had to be, with a chilly mist of condensation down the sides. It was, in short, a queen among lagers, which help to soothe the moderate pain in my wallet.

For my meal, I opted to match my impressions of a sunny day and I searched for a mixture of heat and chill, which I found in the shape of a Bolero Burger. This was a lamb-based delight, served between nicely toasted pitta bread, with a mint and garlic yoghurt for a dressing. I was therefore surprised when the polite, efficient and friendly waitress offered me a range of sauces, including barbecue sauce, for this would have ruined the fine balance of the dish.

As it was, the minty yoghurt was the perfect dancing parter – being restrained and subtle – for the spice and panache of the Bolero burger: a house speciality. The burger itself came with chips, served in a minimalistic metal pot. These chips were a little too salty for my palate, although I did polish them off. The salad was crisp and varied, and a small side dish of sliced red cabbage was also a pleasant offering. This too came in a yoghurt sauce, albeit one with bite. Did I detect chilli in the base? If so, this was also an inspired touch of gastronomic artistry, because it worked.

The price of my meal, at £11.95, was a step towards the steeper end, given it was a burger; and lovers of chips might have expected more spuds to have been sacrificed for the plate. However, the emphasis at the Bolero Bar is clearly more on quality rather than quantity, and in this the venue succeeds admirably, with flair and imagination.

I could barely fault the service, which was helpful throughout. There was only one slight moment of irritation, on my part, when I was asked not once, but twice, if I had enjoyed my meal.

The answer, of course, was a most resounding yes: and here I must return, with fond recollections, to my burger: which was indeed perfectly cooked, not crisp but moist, while offering a firm enough resistance to my enquiring knife.

There is youthful, upmarket feel to the Bolero Bar and Kitchen, but its prices are moderate enough, given the quality of food, service and beverages on offer. It is an elegant and comfortable location, and can only come highly recommended.

Ratings:

Atmosphere 8/10

Decor 8/10

Drink 8/10

Prices 7/10

Food 8/10

Overall 8/10